We’ve been hearing that the decline of the suit is imminent, that there’s no use for formal dressing for a few years already. That said, a quality pair of dress boots isn’t something you don strictly for special occasions. Rather, they’re a work staple – no matter if you sort through suit separates or lean toward dark denim – and one for looking sharp after the 9-to-5, too. Weddings, class reunions, and conferences? They have you covered, as long as you bring the right outfit. Within this framework, dress boots aren’t just about style. Construction keeps them going and makes them an integral part of your capsule wardrobe. Whether you’re searching for your first pair or wanting to make a longer-lasting purchase, we’ve compiled some of the best men’s dress boot brands across a wide price spectrum.
WHAT ARE DRESS BOOTS?
What qualifies as a dress boot has some wiggle room in the present. It used to be that oxfords and balmoral boots exemplified the top tier. Anything with a thicker outsole or rounded toe appeared too casual. Yet, the blurring of dress codes and greater emphasis on hybrid dressing break down these boundaries. Today, this group of footwear is intended to be worn for cocktail, semi-formal, and formal events (review our dress code guide for reference on the differences) and can be dressed down for smart-casual with the right pieces.
As such, dress boots share a combination of characteristics:
– A lower-profile outsole, oftentimes made of leather instead of rubber.
– A single-color brown or black smooth leather or suede upper.
– Minimal seams, excluding the basics.
– Minimalist eyelets.
– A more almond-shaped toe and slim profile.
Of course, variations exist – with the most notable being degrees of brogue details. Toward the hybrid direction, thicker, sometimes lugged outsoles end up being more practical, while a round toe provides more room.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A PAIR OF DRESS BOOTS
As you shop around, be mindful of the following characteristics:
– Prioritize leather, as this generally reflects higher-quality construction. By contrast, most synthetic materials delaminate with time and won’t deliver the longevity you seek.
– Limit experimental colours, unless you’re deliberately maintaining a dandy character. Select black or brown or a lighter variation, like grey or tan. Bolder colours and two-tone combinations feel too experimental for more formal expectations.
– Think about where you’ll be wearing the boots. If it’s for a smart-casual workplace and the occasional wedding, you can get away with a pair of Chelsea boots. If, however, you’re expected to dress up in a two-piece, double-notch-collar navy suit for work or another equally elevated affair, stick with a pair of brown oxfords. Never appear as if you matched hiking or combat boots to a traditional suit.
– Avoid a wider-cut fit, as this attribute, too, harkens back to work boot design. Instead, explore each brand’s lasting and look for something aligning with the curves and shape of your feet. We also recommend trying on each boot with socks on, so you know how it will look and feel.
– Evaluate your wardrobe: Avoid black shoes with a navy suit, but have them on hand for charcoal. Brown ends up being a less jarring contrast.
TYPES OF DRESS BOOTS
What constitutes a dress boot? Although some try to push chukkas and even Dr. Martens into this category, the basic types include:
– Oxfords: The OG dress boot got its name from what Oxford University students used to sport back in the 19th century. Today, both boot and low-height versions have a closed lacing system for a closer fit. You’ll also come across one-piece leather – no seams except for where the upper meets the outsole – and more traditional construction.
– Balmoral: Balmorals often get grouped in with oxfords due to sharing similar characteristics – for instance, a sleeker profile and closed lacing system. However, balmorals are strictly boots and often distinguish themselves with a capped toe and a seam that goes from the vamp along the back of the boot.
– Derby: Derbies used to be the defining line in the dress boot discussion, often marking the start of more casual footwear. Historically, the style launched in the 1850s as a hunting boot and later transformed into a going-out shoe. Also in low and taller styles, derbies stand apart from oxfords with an open lacing system – visible, often metal eyelets – and a round toe.
– Chelsea Boots: You’ll see Chelsea boots made with one or two pieces of fabric stitched to the outsole. Initially a casual, somewhat mod-leaning style, the Chelsea boot is characterized by a mid-height body that you pull on with a loop at the back and a round toe. Today, you’ll spot them in a wider range of materials, including textile, and with a thicker outsole.
– Monk Strap: Monk strap boots take the oxford’s template and add a double-buckle closure over the front.
– Jodhpurs: Similarly, jodhpurs allude to an equestrian past while ultimately appearing as a Chelsea boot with a buckle strap around the ankle.
– Brogues: While not a distinct shoe type, brogue details – or broguing, as it’s often called – add an ornamental element to most of the proper dress boot styles listed above. You’ll typically spot the perforations around the tip and along the sides of a boot. Like derbies, broguing started with more outdoor origins, added to hunting boots to divert water.
