We don’t expect shopping for a dress shirt to be a challenge – not for your first real office job and not a few years down the road when you’re wondering, “What do I wear to this wedding?” After all, men’s dress shirts appear straightforward. We don’t have to contend with the multiple silhouettes, patterns, and trends shaping women’s offerings. But, the sheen of basicness created by straight lines, a point collar, and a solid colour or occasional stripes becomes a mirage. You notice a bulge in certain places. Cuffs fit past your wrists, or the material bags toward your midsection. You quickly grabbed something off the rack in a rush, basing it off your typical size, or you ordered online, assuming you’d look like the featured model. Men’s dress shirts define brands at multiple price points or complement suiting offerings. We’ve compiled some of the best at introductory, mid, and high-end levels, and provide tips for refining your search.
WHAT MAKES A GOOD DRESS SHIRT?
Call it an oxford, a formal shirt, or a business shirt, but the base points are all the same. A stiff point collar with a degree of spread defines a men’s dress shirt. You won’t see a double notch or a buttoned-down collar, nor a softer configuration, as these elements all appear too casual.
This factor is accompanied by a slim to regular fit – again, something too baggy and spacious veers casual – plus a buttoned placket. You may see standard barrel cuffs with buttons or a French cuff requiring a set of cufflinks. Beyond these essentials:
The debate regarding materials rages on: More and more brands add some spandex and polyester for a comfortable stretch and easy ironing. However, these fabrications wear out and start to pucker sooner than 100% cotton, linen, or silk.
Cotton type: Just looking for a cotton dress shirt alone sends you down a rabbit hole of fabrications. Oxford is the most middle of the road and least textured, while twill adds a diagonal weave. Poplin lightens things up and smooths out the surface, while jacquard adds more body and, in some cases, a shinier sheen.
Cuffs: Unless you intend to keep your suit jacket on the entire day, make sure you’re wearing long sleeves with cuffs. Barrel is the standard shape, and French cuffs add a more formal air.
Colour: You can’t go wrong with white or blue. Stripes, checks, and other prints and patterns add personality, but immediately knock down the formality. Think about where you’ll be wearing your dress shirt and the expected dress code.
HOW TO SHOP FOR A MEN’S DRESS SHIRT
Brand is meaningless if its garments don’t fit you well. Refine your search with the following:
Fit: Men’s dress shirts fall into two camps. The shirt is staunchly old school – numbers or bust for a more precise fit. If you’re not going to get alterations, measure yourself ahead of time rather than estimate. The second scenario reflects how we all shop, for better or worse, in the present: Small to XL and beyond. Still, take your measurements and look at the size chart, so you know what you’re getting into. Then, examine a brand’s fit: “Regular” is your father’s ‘80s or ‘90s business shirt, while slim and extra-slim reflect the direction of suiting over the past two decades.
Body shape: Know if you’re a rectangle, an apple, or an inverted triangle, as this will affect how the shirt falls on you. Additionally, know if you fall under Tall measurements, which are designed with a longer torso and arms.
Always be ready for alterations: Even if you get close, expect to take the shirt to a tailor. Realize that it’s always easier to take fabric in or reset a collar than let out a seam.
Know your shirt types: The majority of men’s dress shirt brands are off the rack. Made-to-measure is essentially templated based on your measurements. Bespoke is entirely custom down to design, measurements, and fabric.
THE BEST MEN’S INTRODUCTORY DRESS SHIRT BRANDS
Not everyone can – or wants to – afford the fancy stuff. Introductory or entry-level men’s dress shirt brands share a few common characteristics: You’re far more likely to see performance and no-iron fabrications, they do the basics well, and you’ll find a broader size and style range:
Charles Tyrwhitt
This is the subway shirting brand that every commuter recognizes. While visibility oftentimes correlates with oversaturation, Charles Tyrwhitt stands out in two regards. One, it builds off the collective heritage of Jermyn Street as a center of British shirt-making, and two, it supports its reputation with a relatively solid product. That is, a mid-priced dress shirt (plus various casual offerings) in traditional and performance fabrications. For reference, the company got its start in the ‘80s with a mission of making sharp, longer-lasting clothes. Nothing’s flashy, and that’s exactly the point: You’re able to head into one of their shops online or in person to find one (or multiple, if you take advantage of discounts) decent-quality dress shirt in white, blue, or a subtle print. Prominence also comes with faster product evolution: While the looks exude classic-ness, Charles Tyrwhitt still bases its products on a consumer wanting some comfort, even if for the office. In turn, no-iron means you’re ready to go in less time, and the Tyrwhitt Cool finish performs as expected.
Bonobos
Bonobos is another quick-rise story that’s established a firm, albeit somewhat quirky, reputation in the shirting market. Acquisition by Walmart partially tainted their reputation for a couple of years, but regular features on Netflix’s Queer Eye show that Bonobos captures one particularly modern confluence: basics but with personality. Many will argue that a dress shirt with a floral, pineapple, or geometric print itself isn’t dressy and gets downgraded to business or smart-casual territory. Marketing, ad agency, and creative professionals, on the other hand, will disagree, and that’s where Bonobos confidently caters to its audience. Yes, you can find all your essentials – many with a slight stretch fabrication – and you can also build out that creative workplace wardrobe through various patterns, colours, and fits ranging from skinny to a muscular athletic.
J.Crew
We know that J.Crew has gone through an identity crisis over the past few years or so, attempting to appeal to the new preppy consumer through a streetwear-centered lens. Despite this shift, it hasn’t lost sight of its basics. Dress shirt wise, offerings address two market segments: Those who like the brand recognition and those seeking a higher-quality product closer to their budget. For the former, standard white, blue, stripes, and even patterned materials come in stretch cotton or 100% two-ply cotton construction. On the premium end, their Thomas Mason line results in a smoother look and a lighter feel accompanied by modest tailored details.
