It was July 2018 in Richmond, Virginia. 94 degrees. Humidity so thick you could chew it. I was at my cousin’s wedding wearing a cheap, polyester-blend “slim fit” blazer I’d bought on clearance. Halfway through the ceremony, I wasn’t just sweating; I was melting. I looked like a wet bag of trash. That was the day I realized that most men—myself included—have no idea how to buy a jacket that actually works for a normal human life.
Enter the hopsack. If you don’t know what it is, it’s not a brand. It’s a weave. It looks like a tiny basket weave when you get close, and it’s basically a screen door for your torso. It breathes. It doesn’t wrinkle. You can stuff it into an overhead bin on a flight to Chicago, pull it out, shake it once, and look like a million bucks at dinner. It’s the only jacket you actually need.
The part where I tell you what to avoid
I’m going to be honest here, and I know people will disagree, but I absolutely hate the SuitSupply Havana fit. There, I said it. Every style YouTuber treats SuitSupply like the holy grail, but if you are over 5’10”, their jackets are almost always too short. You end up looking like you’re wearing your younger brother’s school uniform. The proportions are just… off. They lean so hard into that “modern Italian” look that they forgot that some of us have actual torsos. I refuse to recommend them anymore, even though their fabric quality is decent. It’s a hill I’m willing to die on.
Also, stay away from anything with a “stretch” blend. Bonobos used to be my go-to, but lately, they’ve been putting 2-3% elastane in everything. It makes the hopsack look shiny and cheap. A real hopsack should be 100% wool. The texture is the whole point. If it’s stretchy, it’s not a blazer; it’s a yoga mat with buttons.
The Spier & Mackay 14-hour test
If you want the best bang for your buck, it’s Spier & Mackay. I’m not being paid to say that. I just own three of them. I actually tested my navy Neo-cut hopsack last month. I wore it for exactly 14 hours and 22 minutes. That included a 3-hour flight, a messy lunch with a toddler, and a four-hour strategy meeting in a room where the AC was broken.
- Wrinkle resistance: 9/10. Only minor creasing at the inner elbows.
- Breathability: I stood in front of a Dyson fan on level 10 and could actually feel the air hitting my ribs.
- The Price: Usually around $350-$400.
What I mean is—actually, let me put it differently. It’s the only jacket that doesn’t make me feel like I’m “dressing up.” It just feels like a piece of clothing. Their Neo fit has a wider lapel and a softer shoulder, which makes you look like a man instead of a corporate drone. It’s the gold standard. Spier wins.
I used to be wrong about black blazers
I used to think a black hopsack blazer was edgy and “cool” for evening events. I was a complete idiot. Black hopsack looks like a security guard uniform under any kind of artificial light. I wasted $300 on one from a brand I won’t even name because they’ve suffered enough, and I’ve worn it exactly twice. Stick to navy or mid-grey. Navy is the cliché for a reason: it actually works.
Hopsack is the only fabric that manages to look expensive while feeling like pajamas. Don’t overthink the color. Just get navy.
Anyway, I digress. I was talking about textures. The thing about a good hopsack is that the texture allows you to wear it with jeans or chinos without looking like you’re trying too hard. You can’t do that with a smooth worsted wool suit jacket. If you try to wear a suit jacket with jeans, you look like a guy whose car broke down on the way to a court date. Don’t be that guy.
The “If Money Is No Object” Option
If you’ve got $1,500 burning a hole in your pocket, buy a Drake’s Games Blazer. It’s ridiculous. It’s got these big patch pockets and a heavy texture that feels like it could survive a literal fistfight. I can’t afford to buy one every year, but I saved up for one in forest green and it’s the best thing in my closet. It’s a bit slouchier than the Spier & Mackay, which I know some people hate. But if you want to look like a sophisticated architect who just returned from a trip to Tuscany, that’s the play.
Total luxury.
The final verdict
I might be wrong about the gold buttons—I know some people think they’re too “country club”—but I actually think a navy hopsack with brass buttons is a power move. It’s bold. But if you’re scared, just get dark horn buttons and call it a day.
Buy the Spier & Mackay Neo in Navy. Get it tailored. Don’t let them shorten the sleeves too much. That’s it. That’s the whole trick.
I still think about that Richmond wedding sometimes. I think about how much more fun I would have had if I wasn’t peeling a polyester sleeve off my forearm every twenty minutes. Style isn’t about looking better than everyone else; it’s about not having to think about your clothes while you’re trying to live your life. Does that make sense? I don’t know. I’m just a guy with a blog and too many jackets.
